Blackbird's Feast & Whisky Pairing
This post was originally published on My City Life, you can find this here.
Crisp winter air, the bustle of people and hum of city traffic emotes the vibrancy of Eagle Street Pier, which is illuminated by the Story Bridge in the distance. Greeted by the welcoming staff at Blackbird Bar & Grill, I am ushered to a table with stunning Brisbane river views.
The night's menu has been laid out, each of the four courses paired with specially selected whisky from both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg distilleries by Blackbird's Sommelier. Leading with the smooth bodied and oaky flavours of Glenmorangie and then building into the peat power from Ardbeg allows the extension of the palate of the meal through complementing and juxtaposition flavours separate to those on the plate.
The Duck and Goose Pâté with cocoa nib tuile, quandongs, toasted brioche paired with Glenmorangie Milsean works beautifully in presenting a unified front of silky and buttery mouthfeel while enhancing the smoke from the brioche toast. The fatty nature of the pâté together with the oily texture of the Milsean coming from its partial maturation in Chardonnay casks allows these to resonate. The rich and zesty nature of the cocoa nib tuile and quandongs lift the dish to meet the dark berry and oak notes imparted by the Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon casks. A truly brilliant food pairing showcased by finding more flavour notes in the whisky while eating than without.
Throwing a wrench in the form of a substitution request at a set course meal is a dangerous proposition, one in which the team at Blackbird handled perfectly. Substituted for Market fish (see title image) with octopus, ink, polenta, Pedro Ximenez and Pine nuts; Blackbird offered up the Glenmorangie Lasanta paired with a truly divine chestnut, Jerusalem artichoke and truffle soup with a wild mushroom, black rice and chestnut Blinchiki (Russian Crepe). With powerful earthy, rich and oily nutty notes of the truffle, hazelnut and artichoke chips in the soup comes together in a direct and uplifting symphony with the oak, spicy dark fruits and marmalade from the Lasanta. The Blinchiki has a wonderful creamy texture with the soft crepe, and enough salty fresh notes in the mushroom and black rice filing finishing high while introducing new textures.
The third dish of the evening set the scene for the fresh and spicy notes from the complex and delicious mole, Achiote rubbed ribs and pineapple salsa to compete with the fierce sherry finished Uigeadail in a delightful skirmish. The high abv of the Ardbeg cuts through the pork ribs and Chicharron styled scratchings, helped by cucumber, citrus, and herbs in the salsa. Left with a warm mouth and heart as the two come to a ceasefire allows the extremely long finish to be lifted by the pineapple salsa. Shifting the usual citrus and spice notes in the Uigeadail to a more tropical destination while also having the mocha cocoa notes built upon by the Achiote chili.
Dessert pairings are usually reserved for a sweeter port aged-whisky, so it was refreshing to find instead a pairing of the staunch and powerful Ardbeg 10-Year-Old with Blackbird's take on the classic Rocky Road. White chocolate mousse layered in a glass with flaked pistachios and almonds, strawberry marshmallows and jelly, almond twill with dark chocolate vodka and rum soaked sponge and candied honeycomb balls constructed a truly beautiful and complex take on this popular dessert. The idea of pairing these two opposing forces of sweet sugar-laden dessert and the zesty, waxy and tarry smoke of the Ardbeg is not one many would usually opt for, though it is seriously enjoyable. The Ardbeg, while peaty and smoky, has a depth of character that involves a multitude of dark fruits, spices, salted candy, liquorice and coffee combined with an oily brine which complimented the nuts and tuile of the dessert while the alcohol cuts through the sweetness and refreshing the palate between mouthfuls.
There is a vivid sense of grandeur and occasion from the beautiful setting of the elegant dining room, attentiveness of the wait staff, precision and skilful execution of the dinner to the thoughtfulness that shone through in the Whisky selection. This is an absolute triumph in showcasing how whisky can, and should, be paired with food to achieve extraordinary results.
To book call 07 3229 1200 or email here.